Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
